Bring a large pot of water to boil for pasta.
Soak ramps to remove grit, trim roots and cut the ramps across where the whites meet the green tops. Finely chop the whites. Chop greens into 1-inch pieces.
If you are using leeks, trim tough tops and roots, slice the leeks lengthwise and slice 1/2-inch pieces.
Heat EVOO, 3 turns of the pan, over medium heat, add whites of ramps or leeks, garlic, chili pepper, lemon zest, season with salt and pepper, stir 5-6 minutes then add wine, reduce heat to low.
Season pasta water with salt and boil pasta to al dente. Reserve 1/2 cup starchy cooking water just before draining.